On our recent trip to Merida we stayed at Casa Santana a comfortable B&B tucked away in the busy, sprawling city of Merida.
I’m very thankful that we chose to stay at Casa Santana. I didn’t care for Merida. It’s too crowded and too busy for me to feel comfortable but I could relax once I stepped through the front door at Casa Santana. It’s like stepping out of the “modern” city and into a more laid back time period. It’s decorated wonderfully. Everything is authentic Mexican. There’s nothing cheesy about this place like so many other destinations in Mexico.
There are three bedrooms with private baths at Casa Santana. Each room is a little different, each very unique. We were the only guests staying there at the time and opted for the back room, furthest away from the street. There was zero road noise and very little to remind us that we were in the big city. We would here occasional sirens or other loud noises but rarely was the dull hum of traffic audible in our room. There’s air conditioning available but we didn’t need it. The rooms have huge screened doors that open up to the garden area.
There’s a small wading pool available to cool off in. I didn’t use it but my wife did. The pool is filled with well water so it tends to stay cool even on hot days. It’s not big enough to swim laps or get any kind of exercise. It’s just a good escape to get away from the heat of the summer months.
The attention to detail at Casa Santana is apparent everywhere you look. It’s obvious that the owner has impeccable taste and very good sense of what’s necessary to make her guests comfortable.
The only negative aspect of our stay was that there’s no wireless internet service available at Casa Santana. To most people that’s not a big deal but for us being self-employed internet folks it’s a drag to have to find an internet cafe. Internet cafes are plentiful in Merida and cheap too. We found many for 20 pesos per hour which translates to $2 an hour at today’s exchange rates. You can get free wireless access at the zocalo which it a short ten minute walk from Casa Santana.
Why didn’t I like Merida? It’s an old city that pre-dates modern automotive traffic and congestion. We like to walk from place to place when we’re in a city to get a feel for the place. The sidewalks are an obvious afterthought in Merida. In most areas they are barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side. (Passing a slow-walking pedestrian often requires you to step into the street.) The storefronts in most of Merida are fortress-like. Every door and window is protected by iron or steel bars. That’s just not inviting and the kind of thing that makes me uncomfortable.
In order to appreciate the true character of Merida you need to step off the street and inside the buildings, squares and courtyards. That’s where the magic of Merida lies. The zocalo area is very nice with a huge church next to it that dates back to the 1500s. The art exhibit in the old Governor’s mansion is a must-see as well.
Merida is the friendliest big city I’ve ever been too. I stand out like a sore thumb as a six plus foot tall gringo with a scruffy beard towering over the 5 foot something crowds of Mayans around me. On many occasions complete strangers would come up to us and strike up a conversation to help us find our way to places around down. (It was obvious we were looking for something as we held a map and had blank stares on our faces.) In contrast with the buildings and architecture of Merida the people of Merida are quite open and friendly.