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	<title>Comments for Rufus The Doofus</title>
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	<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com</link>
	<description>Sometimes I wish I were a dog</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 08 Apr 2011 16:47:14 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on No Pressure &#8211; Yet by Rufus</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/no-pressure-yet/comment-page-1/#comment-99</link>
		<dc:creator>Rufus</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Apr 2011 16:47:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=336#comment-99</guid>
		<description>I think you would be better off switching to the 2H.  I&#039;ve been having troubles keeping the head gasket together at anything higher than 8psi boost.  I&#039;m going to switch from the stock head bolts to ARP head studs hoping that will help.  

The performance gains are impressive.  Even when running only 6psi boost.  The truck easily cruises down the road in 5th gear at 65MPH/104KPH and that&#039;s with slightly more than stock fuel levels from the injection pump.  This turbo is very well matched to the engine.  It starts building boost at 1700-1800 RPM and is at full 6 to 8 psi by 2250 to 2350 RPM.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think you would be better off switching to the 2H.  I&#8217;ve been having troubles keeping the head gasket together at anything higher than 8psi boost.  I&#8217;m going to switch from the stock head bolts to ARP head studs hoping that will help.  </p>
<p>The performance gains are impressive.  Even when running only 6psi boost.  The truck easily cruises down the road in 5th gear at 65MPH/104KPH and that&#8217;s with slightly more than stock fuel levels from the injection pump.  This turbo is very well matched to the engine.  It starts building boost at 1700-1800 RPM and is at full 6 to 8 psi by 2250 to 2350 RPM.</p>
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		<title>Comment on No Pressure &#8211; Yet by jamie</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/no-pressure-yet/comment-page-1/#comment-98</link>
		<dc:creator>jamie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 Apr 2011 10:26:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=336#comment-98</guid>
		<description>hey mate trying to find info on this for ages tossing upweather to do the same or engine c/o would appreciate if you can tell me the performance gains from the upgrade and any other changes ypu noticed. good work thanks.

jamie/vener2336@hotmail.com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hey mate trying to find info on this for ages tossing upweather to do the same or engine c/o would appreciate if you can tell me the performance gains from the upgrade and any other changes ypu noticed. good work thanks.</p>
<p>jamie/vener2336@hotmail.com</p>
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		<title>Comment on MIG Welding Aluminum Ain&#8217;t Easy by Josh W.</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/mig-welding-aluminum-aint-easy/comment-page-1/#comment-96</link>
		<dc:creator>Josh W.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Jan 2011 04:40:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/mig-welding-aluminum-aint-easy/#comment-96</guid>
		<description>Hey, Rufus. 

Welding tubes like this is not an easy skill under the best circumstances. Just to give you some background I&#039;ve been welding for more than 10 years, and now I work as a cert&#039;ed weld inspector.

I enjoyed reading you article and I have a few comments.

One possible reason for your previous feed issues is A) you are probably using vee-groove rollers, which will cause &quot;wire shaving&quot; with the soft 4043 wire, especially if you&#039;re using a lot of pressure on your rollers. Those tiny shavings in turn end up clogging your guides, tip, and liner. (A lot of people will recommend 5356 with conventional wire feeders because of it&#039;s higher yield strength.) With AL you should ONLY use smooth &quot;U&quot; groove rollers. And use the absolute minimum of roller pressure! You should be able to stop the wire feeding from the tip just by pinching it. It&#039;s also helpful to get teflon wire guides as well. The copper ones, being harder than aluminum may also cause wire shaving. 

If you can&#039;t stop the wire easily with your fingers, chances are a jam will break the wire, cause a &quot;bird&#039;s nest&quot;, and cost you a lot of time re-threading the wire.  Even if it doesn&#039;t break, trying to push through a hang-up with brute roller force might damage your plastic liner or guides.

The method of metal transfer with Al is quite different than what you&#039;re probably used to when welding steel. 

With only a 150 amp welder you&#039;re using &quot;short circuit transfer&quot; with steel. With SCT if your Volts and WFS are tuned correctly, causes the crisp &quot;crackling&quot; sound, like peeling packing tape. 

Al MUST be used in the &quot;spray transfer&quot; mode. (SCT doesn&#039;t provide enough &quot;cleaning action&quot; to break through the tenacious surface oxide layer on any aluminum.) The spray transfer mode is very quiet, it sounds like frying an egg. When properly tuned, spatter should be only occasional.

For .030&quot; Al wire, spray transfer occurs between  500 IPM/22Volts, and 750IP/24V 

For .035&quot; wire, good spray is between 400IPM/23V, and 700IPM/24V  

Note that the latter requires between 120 and 200 amps. the former requires 100-150 amps. It&#039;s questionable that your machine can produce reliable Al spray transfer weld with .035&quot;. Therefore, with your underpowered machine I&#039;d advise you to select .030&quot; wire and get a spool gun (with u-groove rollers) for best results. The small, delicate .030&quot; Al wire is likely to cause feed issues with traditional feeders no matter what you do.

Also, check out this website by Ed Craig who in my opinion is the world&#039;s master of MIG welding.
http://www.weldreality.com/aluminum-welding-2.htmelding.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey, Rufus. </p>
<p>Welding tubes like this is not an easy skill under the best circumstances. Just to give you some background I&#8217;ve been welding for more than 10 years, and now I work as a cert&#8217;ed weld inspector.</p>
<p>I enjoyed reading you article and I have a few comments.</p>
<p>One possible reason for your previous feed issues is A) you are probably using vee-groove rollers, which will cause &#8220;wire shaving&#8221; with the soft 4043 wire, especially if you&#8217;re using a lot of pressure on your rollers. Those tiny shavings in turn end up clogging your guides, tip, and liner. (A lot of people will recommend 5356 with conventional wire feeders because of it&#8217;s higher yield strength.) With AL you should ONLY use smooth &#8220;U&#8221; groove rollers. And use the absolute minimum of roller pressure! You should be able to stop the wire feeding from the tip just by pinching it. It&#8217;s also helpful to get teflon wire guides as well. The copper ones, being harder than aluminum may also cause wire shaving. </p>
<p>If you can&#8217;t stop the wire easily with your fingers, chances are a jam will break the wire, cause a &#8220;bird&#8217;s nest&#8221;, and cost you a lot of time re-threading the wire.  Even if it doesn&#8217;t break, trying to push through a hang-up with brute roller force might damage your plastic liner or guides.</p>
<p>The method of metal transfer with Al is quite different than what you&#8217;re probably used to when welding steel. </p>
<p>With only a 150 amp welder you&#8217;re using &#8220;short circuit transfer&#8221; with steel. With SCT if your Volts and WFS are tuned correctly, causes the crisp &#8220;crackling&#8221; sound, like peeling packing tape. </p>
<p>Al MUST be used in the &#8220;spray transfer&#8221; mode. (SCT doesn&#8217;t provide enough &#8220;cleaning action&#8221; to break through the tenacious surface oxide layer on any aluminum.) The spray transfer mode is very quiet, it sounds like frying an egg. When properly tuned, spatter should be only occasional.</p>
<p>For .030&#8243; Al wire, spray transfer occurs between  500 IPM/22Volts, and 750IP/24V </p>
<p>For .035&#8243; wire, good spray is between 400IPM/23V, and 700IPM/24V  </p>
<p>Note that the latter requires between 120 and 200 amps. the former requires 100-150 amps. It&#8217;s questionable that your machine can produce reliable Al spray transfer weld with .035&#8243;. Therefore, with your underpowered machine I&#8217;d advise you to select .030&#8243; wire and get a spool gun (with u-groove rollers) for best results. The small, delicate .030&#8243; Al wire is likely to cause feed issues with traditional feeders no matter what you do.</p>
<p>Also, check out this website by Ed Craig who in my opinion is the world&#8217;s master of MIG welding.<br />
<a href="http://www.weldreality.com/aluminum-welding-2.htmelding" rel="nofollow">http://www.weldreality.com/aluminum-welding-2.htmelding</a>.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Custom Land Cruiser Roof Rack Build (Part 4) by Sarah Long</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/custom-land-cruiser-roof-rack-build-part-4/comment-page-1/#comment-94</link>
		<dc:creator>Sarah Long</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Dec 2010 20:37:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/custom-land-cruiser-roof-rack-build-part-4/#comment-94</guid>
		<description>This is a very cool metal roof rack. Great idea!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a very cool metal roof rack. Great idea!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on This Year&#8217;s Cruiser Projects by Rufus, You suck &#124; Rufus The Doofus</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/this-years-cruiser-projects/comment-page-1/#comment-93</link>
		<dc:creator>Rufus, You suck &#124; Rufus The Doofus</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Nov 2010 20:18:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=345#comment-93</guid>
		<description>[...] photo above is what our driveway looked like for most of the summer. I have been working on this year&#8217;s Cruiser projects just not posting about them on this site. If you&#8217;re curious and like photos of Land Cruiser [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] photo above is what our driveway looked like for most of the summer. I have been working on this year&#8217;s Cruiser projects just not posting about them on this site. If you&#8217;re curious and like photos of Land Cruiser [...]</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on This Year&#8217;s Cruiser Projects by Rufus</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/this-years-cruiser-projects/comment-page-1/#comment-91</link>
		<dc:creator>Rufus</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 03:17:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=345#comment-91</guid>
		<description>There&#039;s a guy on ih8mud.com that makes them in batches.  I forget his username.  I can look it up for you if you need it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There&#8217;s a guy on ih8mud.com that makes them in batches.  I forget his username.  I can look it up for you if you need it.</p>
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		<title>Comment on This Year&#8217;s Cruiser Projects by Adam</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/this-years-cruiser-projects/comment-page-1/#comment-90</link>
		<dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 01:35:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=345#comment-90</guid>
		<description>I came across your roof rack and I was wondering where you got the pieces that mount to the rain gutter, or did you make those yourself?  I would also like to fab a roof rack, but I cannot find the parts that mount to the gutter.

Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I came across your roof rack and I was wondering where you got the pieces that mount to the rain gutter, or did you make those yourself?  I would also like to fab a roof rack, but I cannot find the parts that mount to the gutter.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Parts is Parts by Rufus</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/parts-is-parts/comment-page-1/#comment-89</link>
		<dc:creator>Rufus</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Jul 2010 13:14:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=326#comment-89</guid>
		<description>Yes, it should work.  At least I hope so.  That&#039;s the direction I&#039;m going.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes, it should work.  At least I hope so.  That&#8217;s the direction I&#8217;m going.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Parts is Parts by Marty Fox</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/parts-is-parts/comment-page-1/#comment-88</link>
		<dc:creator>Marty Fox</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Jul 2010 11:13:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=326#comment-88</guid>
		<description>will the old H motor connect to... lets say a 2h five speed box?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>will the old H motor connect to&#8230; lets say a 2h five speed box?</p>
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		<title>Comment on No Pressure &#8211; Yet by Marty Fox</title>
		<link>http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/no-pressure-yet/comment-page-1/#comment-87</link>
		<dc:creator>Marty Fox</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Jul 2010 11:09:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rufusthedoofus.com/?p=336#comment-87</guid>
		<description>impressive build fella. Tks for documenting your progress, very interesting.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>impressive build fella. Tks for documenting your progress, very interesting.</p>
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